![]() ![]() If you don't have very good ventilation then you may find these modules running at well north of 80C. They run absurdly hot, and they eat a lot of power. Just a heads up to anyone who does intend to go buy a bunch of those modules. I'm presuming the NAS is caching the requests in memory, but both are on a UPS and it's only temporary working data anyway so I'm not too worried if the data doesn't actually hit the disc immediately. Side note: I actually moved a USB drive from the server to the NAS as it had significantly faster (by about 30%) sustained read/write speeds that way. Like you, I'm also open to suggestions if there's a cheap(ish) option I've overlooked. I'm not convinced it's worth the cost of moving most of my other devices to 10GbE, even though I have a >1Gbps (down) Internet connection, as switches with more SPF+ ports or any 10G-BaseT ports (which some of my devices would require IIRC) seem rather expensive. ![]() A little overkill for most of my usage, but it's nice to have. I moved the 10Gbps NAS/server link to the main network, and added 10GbE to my main PC (with another ConnectX-3), and it's been a really nice system to use. Seeing file transfer speeds of >700MBps between my server and NAS convinced me it was worth keeping them installed, though initially just as a point-to-point link between those two systems.Ī few months later, I was upgrading to a 24-port managed switch, and found one with four SPF+ ports (Aruba 1930) for little more than I could find a purely gigabit switch (~£180). I also never thought I'd bother with 10GbE until I stumbled on some used Mellanox ConnectX-3 cards that were just cheap enough to play around with (~$30/card including DAC cables). ![]() but I'd be happy to hear about recommendations and what to look for/avoid with that type of gear either (new or used) I guess I'm not used to being at the edge of home networking tech as a canadian. So for now wifi 6e is basically just as fast as my wired setup, which is weird. And while I have a home server rack, even the more affordable second hand enterprise switches are usually ancient powerhogs. Bell also seems to have locked down their new hardware so it is impossible to bypass their hub. The few that exist either cost more than what I pay for my connection in an entire year, or don't interact well with the ISP provided hub/modem (it has no SFP). The issue is that it seems to be very hard to find affordable switches with 10gbe ethernet copper ports, instead of SFP. For the same price (!), around 60$/month with a permanent discount that Bell seems to hand out to everyone who asks. To the right of this you’ll see the channel number and (inside parenthesis) the frequency band of your connection.įinding out if your Mac Wi-Fi is 2.4GHz or 5GHz.I never thought I'd actually shop for a 10Gbe switch here in canada, but I went from a 100mbps trash-tier docsis (ugh) connection to an almost too-good-to-be-true symmetric 1.5gbs FTTH with Bell Fibe.Look at the section that has your network name at the top and, as you move down the list, you’ll come to one entitled Channel. ![]() The drop-down menu will now include a lot more information that it normally shows, including various details about your connection.Hold down the Option/Alt key and click on the Wi-Fi icon in the Menu bar at the top of the screen.There’s an easy way to see what frequency band you’re connected to on your Mac. Electronic devices and appliances such as including microwaves and baby monitors use the 2.4 GHz frequency and can interfer with your connection if you are also using that frequency.5GHz is faster, but works better over shorter distances and usually in the same room.The 2.4GHz band is slightly slower, but has a signal that can travel better through walls.There are technical reasons for this, but we don’t need to go into those for the sake of this article, you just need to know three things: These frequencies operate in a slightly different way, which means they complement each other when provided on a network. What is the difference between 2.4GHz and 5GHz? In truth, your Mac will most likely pick the best option automatically, but if you want to take control of the connection and change your Mac to 5GHz (or back to 2.4GHz) then here’s what you’ll need to do. ![]()
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